COP17 in Mongolia — and why it concerns us

From 17 to 28 August 2026, Mongolia hosts the UN's COP17 on desertification, drought and land degradation. The conference is held in Ulaanbaatar under the theme "Restoring Land. Restoring Hope." and addresses how landscapes affected by drought and land degradation can be protected and restored, so they can continue to sustain people, animals, food and the local economy.

Updated 1 August 2026

Water, grass and open expanses are the foundation of Mongolia's grazing landscapes.
Water, grass and open expanses are the foundation of Mongolia's grazing landscapes.

Undarmaa is following the conference, and we're using it as an opportunity to take stock of our own work.

COP17 isn't about cashmere as such. But it's about the landscape our materials come from: the Mongolian steppes and grazing lands, where weather, grass, animals and people are closely connected.

For us, it's an opportunity to explain why origin and transparency matter in working with Mongolian cashmere, yak wool and camel wool.

COP17 coincides with the UN's International Year of Rangelands and Pastoralists, IYRP 2026, which Mongolia itself has been a driving force behind. The year puts the spotlight on grazing lands, nomadic animal husbandry and the local communities that depend on these landscapes. It sits close to our materials and the reality they come from.

When the material comes from animals and landscapes

Cashmere, yak wool and camel wool aren't just textile materials. They come from animals that live in a landscape where grass, water and weather set the terms.

Mongolia is large, sparsely populated, and there's a big difference between summer and winter. Many families still live wholly or partly as nomads, moving their animals between grazing areas so the animals can find food and the land can get time to recover. Almost 77 percent of Mongolia's land area is today considered degraded to some degree.

As the climate becomes more unstable, this system becomes more vulnerable. Dry summers produce poorer grass, and harsh winters can hit the animals hard. In the winter of 2023–2024, more than 7 million animals died in Mongolia during an extreme cold-weather disaster (dzud).

It doesn't only affect the animals. It affects herder families' income, the local economy, and the materials Mongolia is known for.

Nomadic life in Mongolia is built on adapting to landscape, weather and seasons.
Nomadic life in Mongolia is built on adapting to landscape, weather and seasons.

Cashmere requires care

Cashmere is an important source of income for many Mongolian herder families. Alongside mining, cashmere is one of Mongolia's best-known raw materials. The country is the world's second-largest producer after China and supplies around 40 percent of the world's raw cashmere.

Cashmere comes from goats, and there are today around 23 million goats in Mongolia. What's interesting isn't just the number, but the share: goats have gone from traditionally making up around a quarter of the herd to nearly 40 percent today. This shift is partly linked to cashmere being an important income source for many herder families. But when many animals use the same grazing areas, it can put pressure on the landscape — especially around water, winter grazing areas and areas close to towns or infrastructure. It's a concrete challenge that needs to be worked on.

Many different initiatives have been launched over the years, and they have produced results, even though much still remains to be done. More cooperatives are forming, where nomads join together and agree on how grazing rights are allocated. More is being invested in advice and training, and cashmere brands and industry organisations are working on certifications, which are partly based on limiting the number of goats and creating good quality.

Cashmere comes from goats that live in Mongolia's grazing lands.
Cashmere comes from goats that live in Mongolia's grazing lands.

Why processing in Mongolia matters

Mongolia has strong traditions and deep knowledge of animal fibres. But a large part of the value is only created later in the process — when the raw material is sorted, washed, spun, knitted, sewn and sold as a finished product.

When the raw material leaves the country early, a large part of the value is also created somewhere else.

That's why processing in Mongolia matters. The more of the work that can happen close to the origin, the more of the value, the craftsmanship and the jobs can stay in the country.

At Undarmaa, we try as far as possible to work with products where both the material and the processing have a clear connection to Mongolia. That keeps more value local and fits with our wish to support Mongolian craftsmanship, production and responsible use of the natural fibres.

Processing in Mongolia is an important part of creating more value close to the origin.
Processing in Mongolia is an important part of creating more value close to the origin.

Traceability and collaboration

A central question is traceability: can you see where the raw material comes from, who has worked with it, and how it moves through the different stages until the finished product?

Origin can be documented in several ways. The most important is that the material is registered as it changes hands and passes through new stages in the chain. If you can trace where the material comes from, it becomes easier to verify who does what, and to show that the materials carry not just a story, but documentation behind it too.

Among others, we work directly with Eeltei Baylag and Munkbumuud, where origin and traceability are high priorities. We also have indirect connections through suppliers such as Dulaan Cashmere and Tenger Yurtunts, who use yarn from SFA-certified factories. The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) works on standards, training, animal welfare, grazing-land management and documentation for cashmere.

That doesn't mean everything is fully documented at every stage. Nor is it always as straightforward as one might wish. But it's an important direction: more transparency, more knowledge of origin, and more responsibility in the choices we make as a small company.

Our starting point

At Undarmaa, we work with cashmere, yak wool and camel wool from Mongolia in small batches.

We work with producers we've known for many years, ask about origin and processing, and prioritise products made to last. Our focus is on quality over volume, greater transparency, and respect for the material.

Questions and answers

What is COP17?

COP17 is the UN's 17th Conference of the Parties under the Convention to Combat Desertification. In 2026 it's held in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, from 17 to 28 August, and covers drought, land degradation, grazing lands, water and food systems.

Is Undarmaa taking part in COP17?

No. We have no role in the conference and aren't attending. We're following it from the outside and using it as an opportunity to take stock of our own work.

Why is Undarmaa writing about COP17?

Because the conference is about the landscape our materials come from. Cashmere, yak wool and camel wool are connected to animals, people and grazing lands in Mongolia. We're also a commercial player that buys and sells these materials, and that's part of the picture.

What does cashmere mean for Mongolia?

Cashmere is an important source of income for many herder families and one of Mongolia's best-known raw materials. But like any material, cashmere has knock-on effects. In Mongolia, that involves grazing lands, animal husbandry, local processing and traceability, among other things.

What does Undarmaa actually do?

We work with small batches, choose producers we know, ask about origin and processing, and try to use suppliers who work with traceability, certification or better documentation. It's work that develops step by step.

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