Mongolian cashmere
The finest quality wool—hand-combed on the Mongolian steppe.
My passion has always been Mongolian cashmere. The finest cashmere comes from only one place: a harsh, cold climate where goats develop a thick undercoat to survive. On the Mongolian steppe—in the Republic of Mongolia, not to be confused with the Chinese province of Inner Mongolia—winter is long and harsh, and that is precisely what gives the wool its character.
Cashmere is wool from goats. More specifically, it is the fine undercoat that grows in the fall as a protective layer against the cold and is combed out again in the spring when the animal sheds its coat.
- 14–19 µm fiber diameter (human hair: 50–100 µm, approx. 70 µm on average)
- Hand-combed in the spring — not cut
- ~3 goats for one sweater
- Exceptional heat output relative to its weight
A comforter made of fine fibers
The goat has two layers of fur: an outer layer of coarse guard hairs that protect against wind, rain, and sun—and underneath that, a soft undercoat that provides insulation. Only the undercoat is used to make cashmere.
On the steppe, winter temperatures can drop to −30 to −40 °C, with lows below −50 °C in the western provinces. The undercoat is the animal’s defense against the cold. When spring arrives and the warmth returns, it sheds naturally—and that is when it is harvested.
Hand-combed — quality and animal welfare go hand in hand
In Mongolia, cashmere is hand-plucked; it is gently combed out with a comb in the spring when the goats shed their coats. This method is gentler than shearing and better aligned with the animal’s natural cycle: the outer coat remains intact, so the goat is still protected from the spring winds and rain.
A goat produces about 150–300 grams of raw combed wool per year. After sorting and cleaning, only 30–50% is usable cashmere—which is why a single sweater requires wool from at least three goats. It’s a material that takes time to produce. That’s part of the reason why it’s worth taking good care of.
Mongolian vs. Chinese cashmere
Mongolian cashmere is considered among the best in the world—but the difference lies less in fineness than in the nature of the fiber. The finest Mongolian and Chinese fibers fall within the same range; what sets Mongolian cashmere apart is its length, curl, and uniformity. Mongolian fibers are typically 30–40 mm long, compared to 25–35 mm—and longer fibers provide strength, less pilling, and a knit that lasts longer. The extreme climate plays a role: on the Mongolian steppe, winter temperatures drop to −40 °C, and the persistent cold produces a dense, fine undercoat.
And an important distinction: Inner Mongolia is a Chinese province—not to be confused with the Republic of Mongolia. The industry isn’t always transparent; much of the “Mongolian” cashmere on the market actually comes from China. For us, “Mongolian cashmere” means: from the Republic of Mongolia.
The Nomads and a Country in Transition
Nomadic herders still make up about one-fifth of Mongolia’s population—a rarity in the modern world. Cashmere has become one of their main sources of income, and this has transformed life on the steppe.
In the original nomadic way of life, goats, yaks, camels, sheep, and horses lived side by side in a balance that was easier for the steppe to sustain. Today, goats dominate the landscape because cashmere is the most marketable product. The goat population has grown from around 5 million in the late 1980s to about 27 million today, and overgrazing is straining the grass and soil. It is a development we are addressing with open eyes.
At the same time, most Mongolian cashmere is not processed in Mongolia at all—the raw wool is exported and turned into knitwear elsewhere, primarily in China. At Undarmaa, we consciously work with Mongolian manufacturers and keep production in the country where the raw material comes from. This is part of what we mean by responsibility: that the value and craftsmanship remain where the wool belongs. Read more at Manufacturers and Responsibility.
Incidentally, among our fibers, it is yak wool—not cashmere—that is the most sustainable choice. Read more about yak wool.
Read more about yak wool, camel wool, and Mongolia.